All Natural Non-Toxic Skin Care: How You Can Sift Out The Real Deal From The Hype

March 4th, 2010

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

With the explosion of “green” products entering the skin care market in the last year or so, it is now commonplace to find both department store and drug store shelves lined with products featuring “green packaging.”   And when I say, “green,” I am not necessarily referring to those companies who are using environmentally friendly packaging.   I am referring to something much more visual which entails the package design or artwork. 

If you walk through any large chain drug store these days you will see a myriad of skin and body products lining the shelves with “nature inspired” design motifs which are meant to convey the image of an “all natural” product.   In fact, just about every major commercial company has developed packaging within the last year or so promoting their new line of products which are made with natural botanical extracts.   They run the gamut from skin creams to shampoos and conditioners.

However, if you look at the ingredient listings, you will see that not much has changed.   Typically what you will find is a handful of botanical extracts thrown in for good effect.   Most if not all of these companies continue to use potentially toxic synthetic ingredients.   For example, many use ingredients derived from petrochemicals and PEG compounds (PEG compounds may be contaminated with 1-4 Dioxane).

So, why do these companies use this type of marketing strategy?  Quite simply, it is to increase their bottom line.  If market research tells them that consumers want natural products, then that is what they will attempt to give you.  However, it does not mean that their product packaging or message isn’t misleading.

Going “natural” is certainly a wonderful idea provided the ingredients used are also safe and non-toxic.   The reason why many prefer “all natural” is because many natural ingredients have better safety records than their synthetic counterparts.  However, not all natural ingredients are safe and not all synthetic ingredients are toxic.    In my opinion, the most important question is “are the products I am considering buying safe and non-toxic?  For me, that is the most important criteria.

Educating yourself about certain ingredients can be very helpful and empowering.   Organizations such as Skin Deep which is part of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) can help you decide which ingredients might be safer than others.  They can be found at http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.org.   Another wonderful organization is the Compact for Safe Cosmetics.  La Vie Celeste is a proud signer (see their logo on “Our Philosophy” page of this website).  They can be located at www.safecosmetics.org.  

And remember, that there are no enforceable regulations that companies must comply with when it comes to labeling their products as “all natural.”  Even the FDA does not regulate what goes into skin and body products.  

That is why it is important to become an educated consumer.  Here are some tips which can help:

1) Look for products which are made from natural oils such as jojoba, sesame seed, almond oil, etc., (unrefined is best).  Avoid petrochemicals such as mineral oil and petroleum.  They tend to sit on the surface of the skin, and there may be some toxicity issues as well.  Natural plant botanicals such as green and white tea are also powerful antioxidants which are great for your skin.

2) Look for preservatives that are non-toxic.  Products that are made with water must have an effective enough preservative (s) to ward off bacteria and mold.  While some natural skin care companies rely on essential oils as a standalone preservative, the research indicates that they would need to be used at unsafe levels to adequately product a product.   At La Vie Celeste, we use Cosmocil CQ in all of our products.  It is an extremely gentle, non-toxic preservative.  Avoid preservatives that release formaldehyde such as imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, and sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate.  And because more research needs to be done to determine the safety of parabens, it is best to avoid products that use this form of preservative.

3) Avoid very long ingredient listings–not only will this increase your risk for allergic reaction, breakouts and irritation, but chances are that a long ingredient panel will likely include several potentially toxic synthetic ingredients.

Also, remember that according to some organizations such as The Natural Ingredient Resource Center, a manufacturer can ethically state that their products are “all natural,” if at least 95% of the ingredients come from natural sources which meet their criteria.  The other 5% may come from ingredients that do not meet their criteria, but do not contain synthetic fragrance, artificial colors, or petrochemicals.  The toxicity of each ingredient must also be minimal.

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Colorado Proposes Ban on Personal Care Products It Claims Causes Cancer

February 28th, 2010

Earlier this month, Colorado senators Betty Boyd and Representative Dianne Primavera introduced the “Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act,” into the House.  This bill takes the position that many skin and body care products contain ingredients which can cause cancer and reproductive toxicity.  If passed, the bill would prohibit the sale and distribution of personal care products in the state of Colorado that contain those ingredients deemed harmful.  Additionally, manufacturers who do not comply with the bill would be fined $5000-$10,000. 

The bill argues that this is a necessary step because neither the FDA nor the Colorado Department of Public Health does any monitoring to make sure that personal care ingredients are safe.  The bill plans on using existing documentation or lists of “harmful chemicals,” from the Environmental Protection Agency (EWG), the International agency for research on cancer and the national toxicity program.  A hearing is to be set next week which will hear arguments from both proponents of the bill, as well as those who oppose it.  The US trade association and the Personal Care Products Council are both opposing the bill.  Lisa Powers, vice-president for public affairs and communications for the Personal Care Products Council stated, “They are proposing to ban products that are legally marketed under the FDA’s regulation.  It is grossly overreaching and lacks any scientific basis.” (Source: Cosmetics Design.com).

Most of us would agree that distributing products which are safe and  non-toxic is definitely a positive thing.  However, this issue could have potential problems.   Clearly defining what ingredients are toxic and which ones are not could be  tricky. Different research groups and data banks may not agree on  the toxicity of any given ingredient (s).   There  needs to be a clear consensus regarding this matter.

We will post any updates regarding this issue.

UPDATE — March 3, 2010

On  Tuesday, March 2, 2010, the House turned down a bill which sought to ban certain skin and body care ingredients in the state of Colorado.  The fifteen harmful chemicals in question are banned in Canada and Western Europe and include lead, benzine, and chloroform, just to name a few.   Some of the products targeted include L’Oreal hair color, T/Gel Shampoo, Soft-Soap, Old Spice deodorant, etc.,  (source: The Denver Post).

Several committee members argued that there is no real “science” to connect the products with cancer.  Several opponents aruged that chemists could  find any one of the above chemicals in tiny amounts in any number of products if they looked closely enough.   They added that the rules would open up companies to many frivolous lawsuits.

According to the Denver Post, New York and Missouri are considering similar rules and a number of states currently bar mercury from certain products.

The state of California does require that companies publicly disclose products that contain potentially toxic chemicals which may cause cancer or reproductive problems.

While this bill was not passed, it does seem like things are moving in that direction. 

What do you think?

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La Vie Celeste Collaborates with Women’s Health Care Site

February 27th, 2010

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

We are proud to announce that La Vie Celeste is now collaborating with www.hormones-beauty-health.com.   This is a wonderful organization dedicated to women’s health issues. While the site dedicates much of its resources to hormonal issues such as PMS, peri-menopause and menopause, it also provides up to date information on other health care issues of which almost any woman can relate.  Topics include general health issues, weight management, osteoporosis, as well as skin care.  There is something here for everyone!

The people at this organization have been so kind as to give me a featured spot on their Home Page called, “Dr. Teri’s Expert Advice,” where many of my articles will be posted.  We will also be featuring them as contributing “guest authors” on our blog.  You can look for them under, “guest authors” on the right hand side of the page.

I was also excited when they asked me to write the Forward for their upcoming E-book, “What Every Woman Must Know About Hormones,” which should be available this coming week.  This is an informative read and is wonderful for women of all ages.  I will give an update when it is available.

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Great Inexpensive Natural Make-Up Finds

February 26th, 2010

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

I wanted to share some great  recent make-up finds which are not only natural and in some cases organic, but are extremely affordable.   I remember a time when I would shop exclusively at department stores without  much thought as to  how much I spent on a lipstick or mascara.  Undoubtedly,  the shake-up in the economy has caused many of us to reevaluate our spending habits.   So, it stands to reason that many of us are now looking for quality products but without having to burn a major hole in our wallets.

One of the major reasons I stopped shopping in department stores for skin care and cosmetics was because of the dearth of all natural and non-toxic products that were available.  This is what actually inspired me to start La Vie Celeste.   In terms of finding non-toxic make-up, I began to shop in places such as Whole Foods.  So the transition from Bloomingdales’s to Whole Foods was an interesting one to say the least.

I have recently found a few great items which can be found in most large chain drug stores.   So, I would like to share some of these products with you as I discover them.

One great line which I found in Walgreen’s is Physicians Formula’s  line, “Organic Wear.”   The product offerings definitely seem to be expanding compared to a year ago.  The line consists of tinted moisturizers with an SPF, facial powders, bronzers, concealers, lip gloss, mascara, eye pencils, just to name a few.  I am hoping that they extend the line to include eye shadows.

I recently tried their mascara in the shade, “Black Organics.”  The price was around $6.50.   Lately, my eyes have been very sensitive to mascara and most leave me feeling as if I have something stuck in my eye.  This one did not.  It definitely requires two coats, but after the second coat, I was left with thicker and longer lashes.  I would say this one is better than some of the department store brands I have tried.  I definitely think it is worth a try, particularly at this price.

Another wonderful item I found in this line is their eye liner pencil.  They come in various subdued shades of mostly brown and black.  For example, one shade is more of an olive black than a true black, but they offer a traditional black as well.   No blues or violets here!  The one I purchased is called, “Black Woods Organics.”  However, this is not a black at all, but a beautiful deep brown that is gorgeous.  I have been wearing black eye liner for years and recently tried a number of other brown liners from other brands and didn’t care for any of them.  Somehow, I didn’t feel they made my eyes pop enough.  This one does!  It glides on beautifully with no real need for blending and lasts as long as any others I tried.  Definitely a great find.

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Are All Synthetic Ingredients Harmful?

February 15th, 2010

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

While many synthetic ingredients used in commercial skin and body products are toxic or potentially toxic, there are some synthetic ingredients that are safe and non-toxic. As natural products are becoming increasingly popular due to consumer awareness, it seems that the word “synthetic” has developed a negative stigma, regardless of whether it is safe or not. In fact, more and more natural skincare companies are using synthetic ingredients, which are considered non-toxic (e.g. matrixyl).

Conversely, there are all natural ingredients, which can be toxic, and you wouldn’t want to use. Also, some natural substances such as bergamot oil and lavender essential oil can both increase sensitivity to sunlight. While essential oils do have benefits, they can be irritating for some sensitive skin types. In some people, coconut oil (a very popular natural ingredient) can clog pores.

While we strive to use the finest natural ingredients whenever possible, sometimes it’s necessary to use a non-toxic synthetic ingredient when no equivalent form can be found in nature. For example, the R-Lipoic Acid, which we use in our face and eye creams, is synthesized in a lab because there simply isn’t enough of it in nature (e.g. plants) to use in skincare products or for internal supplements. It’s considered the “natural” form of Lipoic Acid because it mirrors what our bodies naturally produce. According to the scientific research, Alpha Lipoic Acid does not. The R-Lipoic Acid, which we use, is completely safe and non-toxic. In fact, it’s so pure, you could ingest it if it were used by itself (we do not suggest you ingest our creams).

Often, it is necessary to use some type of synthetic non-toxic preservative to ensure the products you use are safe. In our opinion, there are really no safe and effective, all-natural preservative(s). Some companies use a combination of essential oils, but research indicates that in order for essential oils to be effective as a standalone preservative, they would have to be used at unsafe levels.

Many natural skincare companies find it challenging to come up with safe and non-toxic preservatives for their natural products. In an ideal world, we’d be able to pluck the leaves or seeds from a plant or tree, crush it up and mix into our products and come up with a safe and effective preservative. However, in reality, this rarely happens.

Some “natural” preservatives are originally plant derived, but they must undergo a chemical process to convert them into a viable and effective compound strong enough to prevent and combat bacteria and fungus. A balance must be struck between effectiveness and gentleness — in other words, a preservative, which is not only non-toxic, but one that won’t cause (in the majority of people) skin irritations, allergic reactions, etc. One of the preservatives that we use is Cosmocil CQ. It is extremely gentle and has an excellent safety record. It’s been used in baby wipes and contact lens solution for the better part of 20 years. Cosmocil CQ is considered to be a very safe and non-toxic synthetic preservative. More and more natural companies are using Cosmocil CQ as a safer alternative to parabens and preservatives that release formaldehyde such as imidazolidinyl urea and DMDM Hydatoin.

From our perspective, it is more important for a product to be safe and non-toxic, rather than 100% all natural. Please be assured that we can ethically and responsibly state that the La Vie Celeste range does meet the standards for products that are “all natural.” According to the Natural Ingredient Resource Center (NIRC), a product can be labeled as “all natural” if at least 95% of the ingredients fits their criteria for natural ingredients. The other 5% may come from ingredients that do not meet the NIRC criteria for natural, but do not include synthetic fragrances, artificial colors or ingredients from petrochemicals. The toxicity of each ingredient must also be minimal.

Harmful Ingredients to Avoid

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

Many of us have chosen to use safer cosmetics and skin and body care products. Often, that involves much research and careful analysis of exactly what goes into the products we buy. Our decisions are largely dependent on the research that’s available to us.

In March 2008, the Organic Consumers Association (OCA), conducted a study analyzing leading brand name “natural” and “organic” skincare products. The results were startling — several of these companies were producing products that were contaminated with an undisclosed carcinogenic contaminant 1,4-Dioxane. However, none of these products were certified by the USDA National Organic program.

In order to make harsh ingredients (such as detergent cleansers) more mild, some companies add the petrochemical, Ethylene Oxide, which generates 1,4-Dioxane as a byproduct. According to the state of California (under Proposition 65), 1,4-Dioxane is a chemical known to cause cancer. It is also suspected of being a kidney toxicant, respiratory toxicant, among others.

Unfortunately, you will not see 1,4-Dioxane listed on any ingredient label. But there are other ingredients on the product label that may indicate the product is contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane.

The following ingredients may be contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane: Avoid anything containing: “myreth,” “oleth,” “laureth,” “ceteareth,” or any other “eth,” “PEG compounds,” “polyethylene,” “Polyethylene glycol,” polyoxyethylene,” or “oxynol.”

More recently, some organizations have come under scrutiny for certifying products as “organic,” when in fact, only a small percentage of the ingredients contained in the product are actually organic.  In many instances, they are comprised of inexpensive water extracts derived from organic herbs and a few other ingredients sprinkled though out to give the impression of an “organic” product.  According to the data, while not contaminated with 1-4 Dioxane, many of these companies routinely use detergent cleansers which are made from petrochemical compounds.  Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Coco Betaine is very commonly used in many so called “natural” or “organic” products.  Another common ingredient is Olefin Sulfonate, which is also derived from petrochemicals.  These ingredients are often used as foaming agents and penetration enhancers (they help other ingredients penetrate better).

It may be daunting to remember all of the above ingredients.  Write them down on a piece of paper that you keep in your purse or wallet and pull it out when you go the store. Always scrutinize the ingredient labels.

Why Are pH Balanced Skin Care Products so Important?

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

The term pH (power of hydrogen) refers to how acidic or alkaline a substance is. The pH scale ranges from 1-14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral (water is neutral) and anything over a pH of 7.0 is alkaline.

Healthy skin has a slightly acidic pH in the range of 4.5-6.0. This is referred to as the acid mantle. The acid mantle is a film on the surface of the skin consisting of sweat, sebum, and amino acids. The acid mantle has a critical purpose; natural acidity protects against bacteria, fungus, and pollutants.

The acid mantle can also be negatively affected by stress and hormonal changes, causing it to break down and making the skin’s pH more alkaline.

When the skin becomes too alkaline, it not only becomes dry and irritated, but also also loses its ability to fight off bacteria which can lead to blemishes and breakouts (pH imbalance may be a major contributing factor in acne).

Try to avoid products that are too alkaline. Most commercial cleansers are very alkaline, with a pH of 8.0 or more (particularly foaming cleansers). Most soaps have a pH of 9.0 – 11.

Conversely, using products that are overly acidic (such as strong glycolic peels) may also damage the pH of the skin, causing excessive redness, dryness, irritation and vulnerability to the sun. Using gentle exfoliating products such as our exfoliating gel mask will effectively help to slough off dead skin cells without damaging your skin.

Always choose skin care products that have a pH close to that of your own skin (AHA products must have a lower pH in order to exfoliate). This will help ensure that the products you are using do not disrupt the skin’s protective acid mantle.

Avoid potentially toxic ingredients which are used as pH adjusters. Triethanolamine (TEA) is commonly used in many commercial products for this purpose. It may be contaminated with nitrosamines which have been associated with cancer.

All products in the La Vie Celeste skin care collection are pH balanced to ensure the optimum health of your skin.

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