By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

By now most of us have heard about the alleged dangers of using a group of preservatives called parabens.  There are 6 different types of parabens.   Among them are methylparaben, butylparaben, proplparaben, etc.   As with many synthetic preservatives, they are usually used in a range of .50-1.00% concentration which is considered low.  Parabens have been used in skin care and cosmetics for years and are a very effective broad spectrum group of preservatives (they address both mold and bacteria).  

Over the last few years the controversy about parabens began over a single 2004 study which was conducted in the UK by an oncologist in Edinborough.  In this study, the researchers found parabens in the breast tissue of 18 out of 20 women who had breast cancer.    Before you know it,  this information spread all over the Internet and took on a life of its own.   Even major commercial cosmetic and skin care companies began eliminating parabens from there products.  I do not suspect it was because they necessarily felt they were dangerous, but because many consumers believed they were.   And because business is business, the main focus was on the bottom line.

The study in question appears to have been extremely flawed.  It did not bother to test healthy breast tissue as a comparison.   There did not appear to be any “scientific” evidence that the parabens found in breast tissue had any direct link to breast cancer.  Experimental designs must be tightly controlled; every caution must be taken to control for extraneous variables, or those things that can interfere with the results.   Causation (A causes B) was absolutely not proven in this study.  So, to say that parabens caused breast cancer based on the results of this study is not valid.     

Let me say that we do not use parabens in the La Vie Celeste skin care line.  We did not use them even before this huge controversy.   One of the main preservatives we use is a non-toxic synthetic preservative called Cosmocil CQ.  I have written about the need for an effective non-toxic preservative (s) in both my blog posts and other articles which I have written for distribution.   Many “all natural” preservatives are simply not effective enough to pass a preservative “challenge test,” which basically puts a product through extreme circumstances to see how well it will hold up when exposed to high heat and also the introduction of mold and bacteria over a 28 day period or longer.   All of our products passed the 28 day challenge test with no problem what so ever.

I believe that more rigorous scientific research needs to be done to prove that parabens are harmful.   Many watchdog groups emphatically state that parabens cause cancer and are toxic, but do not necessarily have the scientific studies to back it up.  Yes, parabens can cause skin irritations in some, but so can many other preservatives; it really depends on the sensitivity of the individual.  It is not uncommon for people to have allergic reactions or sensitivities to some natural ingredients as well.

I choose to err on the side of caution when it comes to parabens.  I believe more research needs to be done to either refute the negative conclusions which have been reached, or scientifically prove that they are potentially harmful.  In the meantime, as I mentioned above, there are less controversial perservative options which are highly effective.

Also, please remember that the potential harm from toxic chemicals does not usually occur from the use of a single product; it is the cumulative long term exposure from a multitude of chemicals on a daily basis.  When you add up all of the products we use on a daily basis and count the number of chemicals we are exposed to,  it could easily add up to 200-300 a day.

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

There has been so much buzz over the use of nanotechnology, or “penetration enhancers” in skin care over the last few years.   Nanotechnology utilizes extremely small particle sizes (only a billionths of a metre) to drive “active” ingredients deeper into the skin.  Many products containing nanotechnology also come with hefty price tags.  It is not uncommon to find anti-aging  face creams selling well in excess of $100.00 a jar.   Nanotechnology is also used in some sunblocks containing  zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as they may help diminish that  white “chalky” look.

The debate centers on whether or not nanoparticles can actually penetrate past the outer layer of skin into the bloodstream and possibly interact with the immune system.  Theoretically, if this is true, then toxic ingredients encapsulated into nano form could potentially do harm.

The “experts” have mixed opinions.  Some preliminary studies suggest that nanoparticles may illicit an inflammatory response and lead to possible cancer or genetic disorders, particularly from ingesting these particles.  Of particular concern is the use of spray on products, such as sunblocks or sunscreens which may be inhaled upon application.

The FDA does not have any specific regulations regarding the monitoring of nanoparticles.  They generally only investigate if a problem (s) has been reported after a product has been introduced into the market.

The nanoparticle debate continues on both sides of the Atlantic.  Recently, a center opened in Scotland specifically to address the safety of nanoparticles.

So, while the jury is still out, doesn’t it make more sense to avoid products with nanotechnology until more research is done?

At La Vie Celeste, we never use nanoparticles in any of our products.  And, the anti-aging results our customers have experienced  have been spectacular!

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

Many people report having sensitive skin.   Sensitive skin can encompass many things and may mean different things to different people.   Sensitive skin types can experience irritation, redness and or burning sensations, particularly when trying a new product (s).

Rosacea is a very common skin condition and is often experienced by those with sensitive skin.  Rosacea is characterized by inflammation and often looks like red splotches or broken bloods vessels, and can also be characterized by small pimples or breakouts.  Some experts theorize that rosacea may be the result of bacterial of fungal infection. 

Those with rosacea must make sure they use super gentle products that will not exacerbate this condition.  There are medications that physicians can prescribe for rosacea.  Additionally, there are all natural substances which can also help.  Look for ingredients such as R-Lipoic Acid, Green Tea and Chamomile.  These contain anti-inflammatory properties and are also very gentle and provide great anti-aging benefits.

The La Vie Celeste skin care collection offers several products which may help those with rosacea.  Both our Day and Night Restorative Face Cream and our Rose Hydrosol Eye Cream contains both R-Lipoic acid and Green Tea.   We also use Chamomile  in several of our products, including our Illuminating Restorative Toner.

GO AS NATURAL AS POSSIBLE

When shopping, always look for brands that contain all natural skin care ingredients.   While it is true that any number of natural ingredients can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some, most natural skin care products steer clear of potentially toxic ingredients which may be detrimental to your health.  Also, many toxic ingredients can be harsh, irritating and drying.   For example, many synthetic detergent cleansers undergo a process known as “ethoxylation,” in order to make harsh ingredients milder.  This in turn produces 1, 4-Dioxane, which may cause cancer.

Our La Vie Celeste Mother of Pearl Exfoliating Cleanser is a super gentle, truly unique cleanser which is completely free of detergent, fragrance, oils and toxic preservatives.   It works wonderfully for all skin types, particularly sensitive.  It does not foam or create suds, which is actually desirable, since many ingredients used to produce foam are potentially toxic.

ALWAYS GO FRAGRANCE FREE

Without question, sensitive skin should always opt for fragrance free products.   My recommendation is to also avoid essential oils (provides a natural fragrance) which are used in many, if not most all natural skin care lines.  This is not to say that essential oils are bad; in addition to aromatherapy benefits, many also have proven benefits for the skin.  Some essential oils which may irritate sensitive skin include, but are not limited to, peppermint, menthol, and eucalyptus.  

USE A LIMITED NUMBER OF INGREDIENTS AND PRODUCTS

Please remember, that the more ingredients a product contains, the more you increase your risk for an allergic reaction, irritation and or breakouts.  This will make it almost impossible to determine what the offending substance (s) might be.  So, make sure that you purchase products which do not contain an excessive amount of ingredients.  Our philosophy at La Vie Celeste is always, “less is more.”  We only use the necessary ingredients which enhance the overall health and beauty of your skin.

NO DYES OR COLORS

These are usually listed as FD&C colors, followed by a number on the ingredient panel.  These often contain coal tars which are derived from petroleum and may be toxic.

INCLUDE SOOTHING INGREDIENTS

Use soothing natural oils (preferably unrefined) such as apricot kernel oil, sweet almond oil, sesame seed oil, and avocado oil.   Those with allergies may want to avoid using nut oils.  High quality, unrefined Shea butter is also beneficial for most skin types, particularly sensitive.  It may help to control conditions such as dry skin, eczema and rashes.  It also penetrates almost instantly.  The highest quality Shea butter can be found in our La Vie Celeste face and eye creams.   Always seek the advice of your physician for any condition which becomes very painful or uncomfortable.

Treating sensitive skin can be tricky, but if you follow a “less is more strategy,” with fragrance free natural ingredients, you may see your skin reacting a lot less.

By Dr. Teri Dourmashkin

With the explosion of “green” products entering the skin care market in the last year or so, it is now commonplace to find both department store and drug store shelves lined with products featuring “green packaging.”   And when I say, “green,” I am not necessarily referring to those companies who are using environmentally friendly packaging.   I am referring to something much more visual which entails the package design or artwork. 

If you walk through any large chain drug store these days you will see a myriad of skin and body products lining the shelves with “nature inspired” design motifs which are meant to convey the image of an “all natural” product.   In fact, just about every major commercial company has developed packaging within the last year or so promoting their new line of products which are made with natural botanical extracts.   They run the gamut from skin creams to shampoos and conditioners.

However, if you look at the ingredient listings, you will see that not much has changed.   Typically what you will find is a handful of botanical extracts thrown in for good effect.   Most if not all of these companies continue to use potentially toxic synthetic ingredients.   For example, many use ingredients derived from petrochemicals and PEG compounds (PEG compounds may be contaminated with 1-4 Dioxane).

So, why do these companies use this type of marketing strategy?  Quite simply, it is to increase their bottom line.  If market research tells them that consumers want natural products, then that is what they will attempt to give you.  However, it does not mean that their product packaging or message isn’t misleading.

Going “natural” is certainly a wonderful idea provided the ingredients used are also safe and non-toxic.   The reason why many prefer “all natural” is because many natural ingredients have better safety records than their synthetic counterparts.  However, not all natural ingredients are safe and not all synthetic ingredients are toxic.    In my opinion, the most important question is “are the products I am considering buying safe and non-toxic?  For me, that is the most important criteria.

Educating yourself about certain ingredients can be very helpful and empowering.   Organizations such as Skin Deep which is part of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) can help you decide which ingredients might be safer than others.  They can be found at http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.org.   Another wonderful organization is the Compact for Safe Cosmetics.  La Vie Celeste is a proud signer (see their logo on “Our Philosophy” page of this website).  They can be located at www.safecosmetics.org.  

And remember, that there are no enforceable regulations that companies must comply with when it comes to labeling their products as “all natural.”  Even the FDA does not regulate what goes into skin and body products.  

That is why it is important to become an educated consumer.  Here are some tips which can help:

1) Look for products which are made from natural oils such as jojoba, sesame seed, almond oil, etc., (unrefined is best).  Avoid petrochemicals such as mineral oil and petroleum.  They tend to sit on the surface of the skin, and there may be some toxicity issues as well.  Natural plant botanicals such as green and white tea are also powerful antioxidants which are great for your skin.

2) Look for preservatives that are non-toxic.  Products that are made with water must have an effective enough preservative (s) to ward off bacteria and mold.  While some natural skin care companies rely on essential oils as a standalone preservative, the research indicates that they would need to be used at unsafe levels to adequately protect a product.   At La Vie Celeste, we use Cosmocil CQ in all of our products.  It is an extremely gentle, non-toxic preservative.  Avoid preservatives that release formaldehyde such as imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, and sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate.  And because more research needs to be done to determine the safety of parabens, it is best to avoid products that use this form of preservative.

3) Avoid very long ingredient listings–not only will this increase your risk for allergic reaction, breakouts and irritation, but chances are that a long ingredient panel will likely include several potentially toxic synthetic ingredients.

Also, remember that according to some organizations such as The Natural Ingredient Resource Center, a manufacturer can ethically state that their products are “all natural,” if at least 95% of the ingredients come from natural sources which meet their criteria.  The other 5% may come from ingredients that do not meet their criteria, but do not contain synthetic fragrance, artificial colors, or petrochemicals.  The toxicity of each ingredient must also be minimal.